10 traditional Dutch recipes – not all of which involve mashed potato

It would be very easy to be snotty about Dutch food and talk about snack bars, chicken with apple puree and the ubiquitous ‘ovenschotel’.  We could go on and on about boiled chicory with ham and cheese sauce and meatballs with green beans and potatoes – served at 6pm sharp.

The classic Dutch dinner

The classic Dutch dinner

But we won’t be doing any of that. We have a sneaking appreciation for some traditional Dutch recipes – especially those guaranteed to get you through the cold winters. Here are 10 you really should try.

1. Stamppot and its ilk
Let us get this out of the way to start with. When it comes to food it seems the Dutch like nothing better than to mash things. They cannot put a number of perfectly nice ingredients together without taking a hand blender to them. But then, it’s difficult to make a hash of a mash – the basic ingredients being simply potato and some vegetable or other. There is an endless list of things you can mash. Here’s some examples.

Hutspot is said to have originated in Leiden in 1574. The Spanish, on the run from William of Orange, lifted  the siege of the city in a hurry and left a simmering pot of onions, carrots and parsnips (later to be replaced by potatoes). The famished people of Leiden, presumably all armed with forks, mashed the lot and invented hutspot. It is traditionally eaten with ‘klapstuk’ or boiled beef but we like it with bacon chops.

Hete bliksem means ‘hot lightning’ and is made of apple and potato, mashed up of course. Use sour apples  (Goudreinette) and put in lots of crispy fried bacon cubes.

Guess which one this is?

Guess which one this is?

Boerenkool and andijviestamppot are, respectively, potato and curly kale mash and potato and curly endive mash. Serve with rookworst (smoked sausage) and fried bacon bits. The more green vegetable the better. The other big hitter is zuurkool stamppot – pickled cabbage and mash which is a distinctly acquired taste.

2 Beetroot and herring salad
Another simple dish consisting of pickled herring, cooked beetroot, some gherkins, pickled onions, boiled potatoes and some white wine vinegar. Cut everything up in small pieces and mix (not mash).

3 Wentelteefje
Good camping food, a wentelteefje is a slice of white bread sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar dipped in milk and egg and then fried in butter.

Cut the crusts off as an extra touch

Cut the crusts off as an extra touch

‘Ey, waer ick t’huys alleen, ick backte wentel-teven Van suyckert witte broot, en butter-smeerigh vet,’ wrote one A. van de Venne in 1623.  ‘Were I home alone I would bake some wentelteven of sugared white bread and greasy butter.’ It must have been the 17th century equivalent of that ultimate solitary culinary pleasure, the bacon sandwich.

The origin of the word is a little obscure. ‘Wentelen’ means to turn over which is understandable enough but teefje mean ‘bitch’ and is therefore slightly puzzling. ‘Teef’ may have been a sort of confectionary in the olden days.

4 Spek en bonen
Another simple winter favourite: bruine bonen (brown beans), smoked bacon, throw together et voilà. ‘Voor spek en bonen meedoen’ originally meant to do something for very little remuneration and is one of several Dutch sayings involving beans. It now means your presence does not really bring anything to the proceedings.

5  Kapucijners with spek and piccalilly
We have no idea what the proper name for this dish is because everyone we ask has a different answer. This feast is based on big Dutch peas known as kapucijners which are cooked and then served with slices of bacon, smoked sausage, boiled potatoes, apple puree, silverskin onions and piccalilly… at least.

Food fit for a captain

 

May also be known as the Captain’s Dinner, raasdonders or Zeeuwse rijstafel (with the addition of rice).

6 Draadjesvlees
The perfect winter warmer. Draadjesvlees is beef that has been simmering in stock for about a month with a few spices thrown in. No, it’s not a month, but it is a good few hours –  long enough for the meat to become very tender and fall apart in little threads, or draadjes.

Not a bit of mashed potato in sight

Not a bit of mashed potato in sight

Not surprisingly, old-fashioned draadjesvlees has been reclaimed by the slow food movement. Serve with red cabbage and apple (from a jar) and boiled potatoes.

7 Griesmeelpudding
Beloved by some, gruesome childhood memory for others, griesmeelpudding  is semolina pudding. It is often covered in bessensap, or berry coulis. Here’s a recipe, courtesy of Ingrid Weijers.

100 grams (3/4 cup) semolina flour
75 grams (1/3 cup) sugar
8 grams vanilla sugar (can substitute with 2 teaspoons vanilla extract)
pinch salt
1 liter (4 1/4 cups) whole milk
1 egg white

  • Beat egg white until stiff.
  • Combine the semolina flour, sugar, salt and vanilla sugar (if you are using vanilla extract do NOT add it yet).
  • Bring the milk to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Gradually add the semolina mixture while continuously stirring so that it does not burn.
  • After 2 minutes, remove the pot from the heat. Continue to stir until the mixture is cooled. To speed up the cooling process, you can place the pot in a pan of cold water. (Add the vanilla extract to pudding as it cools if you are substituting.)
  • When the mixture is no longer hot, fold in the egg white. This will give the pudding an airy quality.
  • Pour the mixture into a pudding mold that has been slightly moistened. (I used six small silicone molds.) Lightly tap the mold on the counter in order to remove large air bubbles.
  • Cover the mold with plastic wrap. When the pudding has cooled to room temperature, transfer the pudding to the refrigerator. Chill for 2 hours.


8 Hangop

This is another dessert. You can buy it in the supermarket but don’t because it is laughably easy to make. All you need is a wet tea towel, a sieve and a container to sit under the sieve. Pour a litre of yoghurt onto the  wet tea towel, cover and leave for 8 hours in the fridge.

Hangop in the making

Hangop in the making

What you are left with is hangop and very delicious it is too, especially with fruit or honey. The name has nothing to do with any hang ups the Dutch may have about the quality of their cuisine. The tea towel with yoghurt used to be ‘hung up’ for easy dripping hence the name.

9 Erwtensoep
No list of Dutch dishes would be complete without the perfect lunch on a winter’s day – thick, creamy, sausage-filled pea soup. Pumpernickel bread with katenspek (yes, smoked bacon again) on the side is a must, as is a strapping Belgian beer.

Here’s what you need:

1 1/2 cups (10.5 oz) dried green split peas (300 g)
3 1/2 oz Dutch speklapjes (fresh sliced pork belly), (100 g), or thick-cut bacon
1 pork chop (5-6 oz/150 g)  1 stock cube (you could use vegetable/pork/chicken)
2 celery sticks
2-3 carrots, sliced (1/2 cup/3 1/2 oz/100 g)
1 large potato, peeled and cubed
1 small onion, chopped
1 small leek, sliced (1/2 cup/3 1/2 oz/100 g)
1/4 celeriac, cubed (1/2 cup/3 /12 oz/100 g)
Salt and pepper, to taste

Here’s how you make it:

Bring 3 3/4 pints water (1.75 litres) to the boil in a large soup pot, along with the split peas, stock cube, pork chop and bacon. Skim off any froth forming on top. Put the lid on the pot and leave to boil softly for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Take the pork chop out with a pair of tongs, de-bone and thinly slice the meat. Set aside. Add the vegetables to the boiling broth and leave to cook for another 30 minutes, adding a little extra water every time the soup starts to catch.
Add the smoked sausage for the last 15 minutes, put the pork chop meat back in and then devour.

10 Haagse bluf
The name of this dessert roughly translates as ‘all talk and no substance from the Hague’ which may or may not have something to do with The Hague being the political capital of the Netherlands.

All hot air?

All hot air?

Haagse Bluf is a dessert made up entirely of fluff. Beat two egg whites with 100 grams of powdered sugar, then adorn with a bit of berry juice. Serve in a glass with ladies fingers biscuits.

Of course, there are many other dishes we could have included here… please, feel free to send us your favourites.

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15 thoughts on “10 traditional Dutch recipes – not all of which involve mashed potato

  1. wildeworks

    Stoofpeertjes! Pears simmered gently with a little lemon rind and juice, sugar, cinnamon and a dash of vinegar – fruity white balsamic works a treat. Pour over some hot English custard and you have the best of both worlds.

    Reply
  2. Theo

    While I understand that the Netherlands are considered a very small country 🙂 it’s actually very diverse. In every province (there are 12 of them) there are specialties in food. In Limburg in the very south of the Netherlands we have ‘zuurvlees’ for instance which translates as ‘sour meat’ but is actually quite sweet in taste. The sour refers to the fact that the veal is submerged in vinegar for many hours before it’s cooked for a long time.

    Reply
  3. Arno

    Wentelteefjes is niet typisch Nederlands, zie wikipedia voor varianten door de eeuwen heen.
    Oliebol zou echter niet mogen ontbreken.

    Reply
  4. Jules

    It’s not chicken with apple puree – it’s chicken and _chips_ with apple puree! The apple puree goes on the chips, not the chicken silly!

    Reply
  5. Mavadelo

    Hutspot and Leidse Hutspot are two different things. Leidse hutspot is made with parsnip. onions, carrots and white beans. When it was invented the potato was not yet known in theNetherlands. the “normal” hutspot however is potato, carrot and onions (sometimes depending on who makes it also with white or brown beans) and these are two entirely different dishes. the carrots used are called winterpenen and they are the big ones. The orange carrot, now so familiar, was once a novelty. In fact, this young upstart was first cultivated a little more than four hundred years ago. Until then, the purple variety was supreme. Although we consider the carrot immutable, it has been continually reinvented though the ages. No one has definitively solved the puzzle of the orange carrot. We know that it achieved Western supremacy but we don’t know exactly why. The colour took hold in Holland, it is argued, because of Dutch nationalism. This carrot, it is said, without documentary evidence, honoured William of Orange and his House, because the orange variety was developed during his reign. As far as the “stampot andijvie” goes it is very important to know that it is stampot of pottatos and RAW curly endive.

    for those trying to make the peasoup (which is better known as Snert btw) be aware and don’t leave a wooden spoon/spatula in the soup during cooking, the soup will go bad when cooked with a wooden spoon in it so stiir occasionally but remove your spoon.

    Reply
  6. Aly f. Meints

    As an oude Groninger I disagree with your recipe for “griesmeel pudding”. It has noyhing to do with semolina! It is made with “wheat lets” It is cooked as a breakfast porridge,or as a pudding when you vanilla or almond essence and top it with fruit in a sauce. Yum!

    Reply
  7. Marijke

    Haagse bluf has to do with the inhabitants of the city, not the government. The Hague is oddly divided into two sections: the kleikant and the zandkant, loosely translatable as the clay- and sandside. The clay stands for the working class the sand for the upper class, again loosely. There’s the Laan van Meerdervoort, the longest lane in the city, which is the border. The kleikant consideres the zandkant as ‘kouwe kak’ (sorry, ‘cold shit’), as stuck up. There are stories in abundance about this stuck up people keeping up appearances and in The Hague that attitude is known as Haagse bluf. Because this desert is more air than anything substantial it is considered the same: much ado about nothing 🙂 Love your blog, feel offended by it ever so slightly every now and then, but have to laugh out loud about it most of the times, keep it up

    Reply

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